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Friday, October 3, 2014

Okra is served often in tagines of lamb, where it is a good accompaniment to tomatoes, quinces, small sweet apples, pears, zucchini, and a vegetable very similar to yellow squash called slaoui. One rarely finds okra served alone, though I have heard of a dish prepared in Fez made of pureed okra cooked with onions, green coriander, and parsley.

Working time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 2 hours
Serves: 4 to 6

Ingredients:
  • 2½ to 3 pounds lamb shoulder, cut into 1½-inch chunks or 5 or 6 thick chops
  • 2 tablespoons salad oil
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1 large onion, finely chopped
  • 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
  • Salt to taste
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 cinnamon sticks
  • ½ teaspoon turmeric
  • ¼ cup chopped parsley
  • 1 teaspoon chopped fresh green coriander (optional)
  • 1½ pounds fresh okra or 2 ten-ounce packages frozen whole okra
  • 6 red, ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped or 1 eight-ounce can Italian tomatoes, drained, seeded, and chopped

Direction:
  1. Lightly brown the lamb on all sides in the oil and butter. 
  2. Add the onion, garlic, salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, and the other spices. 
  3. Pour over enough water to almost cover the meat and bring to a boil. 
  4. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer 1 hour. 
  5. Remove the cinnamon sticks. 
  6. Add the herbs and continue cooking the tagine 15 minutes. 
  7. Up to this point, the dish can be prepared in advance. 
  8. Forty minutes before serving, preheat oven to 350°. 
  9. Transfer the lamb to the shallow ovenproof dish. 
  10. By boiling rapidly, uncovered, reduce the sauce to 1 cup in the casserole. 
  11. Wash, top, and tail the okra. 
  12. Cut very large okra pods in half. 
  13. Put them in the saucepan and boil, with a few tablespoons sauce, salt, and ½ cup water, for 5 minutes, covered. 
  14. Drain. 
  15. Arrange the okra over the meat and cover with sauce and the chopped tomatoes
  16. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. 
  17. Cover with foil, piercing once or twice so that steam can escape. 
  18. Bake in the preheated oven about 40 minutes. 
  19. Serve at once, with plenty of Moroccan Bread.
This Tetuán dish is called “roof tile” style because the okra is arranged like the green roof tiles of many Moroccan buildings. It steams above a sauce so thick a spoon can stand in it, a prominent feature of Tetuanese cooking.

Working time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 2 hours
Serves: 4 to 6

Ingredients:
  • 3½ pounds shoulder of lamb, cut into 1½-inch chunks
  • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • ½ teaspoon chopped garlic
  • 1 large onion, finely chopped
  • ¼ teaspoon pulverized saffron, mixed with turmeric
  • ¼ cup chopped parsley
  • 1½ pounds fresh okra (assorted sizes)
Direction:
  1. Remove the excess fat from the lamb. 
  2. Brown the meat gently in the oil in the casserole. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, garlic, onion, saffron, half the parsley, and 1 cup water. 
  3. Cover tightly and cook gently 1½ hours, adding more water when necessary. 
  4. Meanwhile, wash, top, and tail the okra. 
  5. Thread them together to form a necklace as described. Preheat the oven to 350°. 
  6. Transfer the meat to the serving dish. 
  7. Add the okra and remaining parsley to the sauce in the casserole. 
  8. Poach the okra 10 minutes, then remove, discarding the thread. 
  9. Meanwhile, reduce the sauce over high heat to 1¼ cups and pour over the meat. 
  10. Arrange the okra in a pyramid fashion over the meat. 
  11. Make a “tepee” of aluminum foil over the okra, then bake 30 minutes. 
  12. Serve at once.
The recipe for this delicious tagine was collected by a Peace Corps girl, who liked it so much she made up copies and handed them around to all her friends.

Working time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 2 hours
Serves: 4 to 5

Ingredients:
  • 3 pounds lamb shoulder, cut into 
  • 1½-inch chunks 
  • 3 tablespoons salad oil or butter 
  • 1 scant cup grated onion 
  • Pinch of pulverized saffron 
  • ½ teaspoon turmeric 
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 
  • Salt to taste 
  • 2 small cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 
  • 1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley 
  • 2½ pounds zucchini, preferably small ones 
  • 1½ to 2 teaspoons za’atar, or one or a combination of thyme, marjoram, orégano

Direction:
  1. Trim and discard the excess fat from the lamb, then gently brown on all sides in oil or butter. 
  2. Add the grated onion, spices, salt, garlic, and parsley, tossing to coat the meat. 
  3. Pour in 2 cups water and bring to a boil. 
  4. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, 1½ hours, or until the meat is almost falling off the bones. 
  5. Add small amounts of water whenever necessary. 
  6. Meanwhile, wash, top, and tail the zucchini and cut into 3/4-inch slices. 
  7. Salt lightly and let drain 20 minutes, then rinse and drain again. 
  8. Sprinkle with the za’atar, finely crushed between the fingertips. 
  9. Set aside. 
  10. When the meat is fully cooked, remove it from the casserole, arrange in one layer in the ovenproof serving dish, and cover with foil to keep warm. 
  11. Add the zucchini to the sauce in the casserole and cook 10 minutes. 
  12. Remove the partially cooked zucchini slices and, removing the foil, cover the meat attractively with them. 
  13. Preheat the oven to 350°. 
  14. By boiling rapidly, uncovered, reduce the sauce to a thick gravy (about 1 cup), pour over meat and zucchini, replace the foil, and bake 20 minutes. 
  15. Serve at once, with a small sprinkling of extra herbs.
Working time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 2¼ hours
Serves: 4 to 6

Ingredients: 
  • 3 pounds lamb shoulder, cut into 1½-inch chunks, with bones 
  • Pinch of pulverized saffron 
  • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 
  • 3/4 teaspoon ground ginger 
  • Salt to taste 
  • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 
  • 2 to 3 tablespoons salad oil 
  • 2/3 cup grated onion 
  • 12 to 14 red, ripe tomatoes, preferably fresh, peeled, seeded, chopped and drained, 1 cup of the juice reserved 
  • 3/4 pound fresh string beans 
  • ¼ cup chopped fresh green coriander or chopped parsley 
  • 1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste 
  • ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon, or to taste
Direction: 
  1. Trim and discard the excess fat from the lamb. 
  2. In the casserole, mix the spices, salt, garlic, and oil. 
  3. Toss with the lamb to coat each piece. 
  4. Stir in the grated onion and the 1 cup fresh tomato juice. 
  5. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, covered, 1½ hours. 
  6. Add water or any leftover tomato juice when necessary to keep the meat moist and avoid scorching. 
  7. Meanwhile, top and tail the string beans. 
  8. Transfer 1 cup of the sauce to the saucepan and simmer the beans until tender, along with 1 tablespoon of the herbs. 
  9. Cover the pan and keep warm.
  10. When the meat is very tender,that is, when it falls easily off the bones, remove and keep warm. 
  11. Add the chopped tomatoes to the sauce in the casserole and cook down quickly over very high heat, mashing the tomatoes to a puree and constantly turning them so they do not scorch as they reduce. 
  12. Cook down to about 1½ cups, adding sugar and cinnamon to taste. 
  13. Return the lamb to the sauce to reheat, and reheat the string beans separately. 
  14. To serve, arrange the string beans around the rim of the serving dish. 
  15. Spoon lamb and tomatoes into the center and sprinkle with the remaining chopped coriander or parsley. 
  16. Serve hot or warm.
Working time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 2½ hours
Serves: 5 to 6

Ingredients:
  • 3 pounds shoulder of lamb, cut into 1½-inch chunks 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 
  • Pinch of pulverized saffron 
  • Salt to taste 
  • 1 teaspoon ground ginger 
  • 1 tablespoon sweet paprika 
  • 1/4 cup chopped parsley 
  • 1/4 cup salad oil or less 
  • 2½ pounds fresh, ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped 
  • 1 pound sweet green peppers, grilled, peeled, seeded, and chopped 
  • Juice of 1 lemon
Direction: 
  1. Trim the lamb of excess fat. 
  2. Place in the casserole, along with a mixture of garlic, saffron, salt, spices, and parsley pounded to a paste in the mortar. 
  3. Pour in the oil to make a sauce and toss with the meat. 
  4. Add 2 cups water, bring to boil, then reduce the heat and simmer 30 minutes. 
  5. Add the tomatoes and continue simmering for 2 more hours, stirring from time to time while the tomatoes cook down to a thick puree. 
  6. Add the green peppers 10 minutes before serving. 
  7. Sprinkle with the lemon juice and serve hot or warm.

Ingredients:

For the lamb and sauce:
  • 3 pounds rib or shoulder of lamb, cut into 1½-inch chunks
  • ½ cup chopped parsley
  • 5 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
  • 1¼ cups grated onion
  • ¼ cup salad oil, or less
  • 1 rounded teaspoon paprika
  • ¼ teaspoon ground cumin
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • Pinch of pulverized saffron
  • Salt to taste
  • 2 to 3 tablespoons lemon juice
For the eggplant garnish:
  • 4 pounds small eggplants
  • Salt
  • Vegetable oil for frying
  • 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
  • 2 teaspoons sweet paprika
  • ¼ teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1/3 cup lemon juice
Direction:
  1. Trim the lamb of excess fat. 
  2. Place in the casserole with all the ingredients for the sauce except the lemon juice. 
  3. Cover with 4 cups water and bring to a boil. 
  4. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, 1½ to 2 hours, or until the meat is very tender, that is, falling off the bones, and the sauce has reduced to a thick gravy. 
  5. Add water, if necessary, during the cooking time. 
  6. Add the lemon juice and taste for seasoning.
  7. Meanwhile, cut off the stems of the small eggplants. 
  8. Peel the stems and throw these little “nuggets” into the casserole as soon as possible, to cook with the meat. 
  9. Peel the eggplants in alternating stripes lengthwise. 
  10. Cut into ¼-inch thick slices, sprinkle heavily with salt, and let drain in a colander 30 minutes to draw off bitterness. 
  11. Rinse the slices well and pat dry with paper towels.
  12. Heat the oil in the skillet and fry the eggplant slices in batches until they are well browned and crisp on both sides. 
  13. Drain, reserving the oil.
  14. Mash the fried eggplant with the garlic, spices, and salt to taste. 
  15. Reheat the reserved oil and fry the mashed eggplant until crisp and “firm” (about 20 minutes), turning the puree over and over in the oil so that all the water evaporates, and only the oil is left to fry the eggplant, which will become very thick and rich in texture. 
  16. Drain again and fold in the lemon juice.
  17. Arrange the lamb and sauce in the serving dish. 
  18. Spread the eggplant over the meat and serve hot or warm.
Working time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 2 hours 40 minutes or more
Serves: 4 to 6

Ingredients:
  • 2½ to 3 pounds beef stew meat, such as shoulder, chuck, or short ribs of beef (with some bone), cut into 1¼-inch chunks
  • ¼ teaspoon turmeric
  • Salt
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • ¼  cup salad oil
  • ½ teaspoons sharp paprika
  • ¼  teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1 pinch ground cumin
  • 1 pinch cayenne pepper
  • 1½ onion, finely chopped
  • 2 ripe tomatoes
  • ¼  cup mixed chopped herbs (parsley and green coriander)
  • 1  pound sweet potatoes
Direction:
  1. Remove and discard the excess fat from the beef. 
  2. Place the beef in the casserole with the turmeric, salt, pepper, and oil. 
  3. Fry, turning the meat often to lightly brown all sides. 
  4. Cover the casserole tightly and cook 15 minutes, without lifting the cover. 
  5. The meat will cook in its own juices, drawn out by the salt over low heat. 
  6. Stir in the remaining spices, chopped onion, herbs, and very little water. 
  7. Simmer, covered, 1½ to 2 hours over gentle heat, until the meat is very tender (almost falling off the bones). 
  8. Add water whenever necessary to keep the meat from scorching.
  9. Meanwhile, in a separate saucepan, cook the cauliflower in salted water until nearly tender. 
  10. Drain and set aside until needed.
  11. Peel the tomatoes, halve them crosswise and squeeze out the seeds, then cut into chunks. 
  12. Peel the sweet potatoes and cut them into ½-inch-thick slices.
  13. Preheat the oven to 350°. 
  14. Transfer the meat and gravy to the serving dish. 
  15. Place the sweet potatoes over the meat and the tomatoes on top of sweet potatoes. 
  16. Cover with foil and bake 40 minutes, until the meat and potatoes are tender. 
  17. Remove the foil cover, raise the oven heat to 450°, and transfer the dish to the upper shelf of the oven. 
  18. Bake until there is a brown spotted crust over the tomatoes. (If there is a great deal of gravy in the pan, pour off into a small saucepan and reduce over high heat to 1 cup before returning it to the dish.) 
  19. Taste for seasoning and serve at once.